Known as the industry’s gold standard ingredient for reversing the signs of skin aging consumers continuously craze about retinol. Shown to help with preventing acne as well, pure retinol known as a retinoid, is a form of vitamin A applied topically to the skin to help with skin issues. More specifically, “Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work by binding to retinoic acid receptors, which then can act as transcription factors and affect gene expression.” according to New York City board-certified dermatologist, Hadley King, MD. It can be bought over the counter without a prescription, included in skincare products, or prescribed by a medical doctor for higher concentrations.
There are multiple types of retinol that are derived from vitamin A including retinoids
retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters and many more.
- Retinol: most potent retinol available without a prescription; commonly used in skincare products. As said before, it is used for anti-aging as well as to boost collagen growth and even out the skin.
- Retinoic acid: an active form of vitamin A that breaks down to be used by the skin. It helps with hyperpigmentation and discoloration, promotes cell growth and more. Prescription retinoids contain retinoic acid while over the counter retinoids are converted to acid when they come into contact with the skin.
- Retinoids: the umbrella term for all molecules that bind to the retinoic acid receptors and is also the general name for the prescription version of the ingredient
- Retinyl esters: they are the mildest version of retinol and take longer to convert to retinoic acid on the skin.
Despite the “legendary” effects of retinol, it does not come without controversy and apprehension. In fact, the European Union is set to limit the concentration of retinol in over-the counter products in fear of the adverse effects of overconsumption of vitamin A. When consumers use retinol for the first time, it is possible for the skin to become irritated, through redness, drying, and even peeling. The EU has decided to cap the retinol percentage at 0.03% for standard products and 0.05% for body lotions, giving brands three years to reformulate their products. This shows cause for concern among brands such as United Kingdom based beauty brand, the Inkey List, who develops multiple products that have over 1% of retinol in them. This legislation will vastly change the formulation of their and other brands’ products. However, this law was not passed without basis. The EU worries too much vitamin A exposure can result in health issues such as liver damage, and pose threats to unborn fetuses in pregnant women.
However, these possible threats do not mean that retinol cannot be utilized on the skin. Much like many other acids on the skincare market, making sure to understand the importance of concentration is highly important. Furthemore, knowing how to use retinol is key as well. Skincare brands emphasize the importance of starting small, to gauge how the skin reacts to retinol and build a tolerance. Furthemore, making sure to use it at night only, as exposing retinol to the sun can increase the skin’ sensitivity. By taking the necessary measures to ensure effective use of retinol, consumers around the world will be able to reap the multiple benefits of retinol, and prevent the possible negative effects as well.
Works Cited
Dermalogica. (n.d.). What is retinol? Benefits, uses, and how it transforms your skin | Dermalogica®. https://www.dermalogica.com/blogs/living-skin/what-is-retinol
Dr. Hadley King. (n.d.). Dermatologist in Midtown Manhattan | Dr Hadley King Dermatology. Hadley King MD. https://www.drhadleyking.com/
Professional, C. C. M. (2025a, April 22). Retinol. Cleveland Clinic. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/23293-retinol
Professional, C. C. M. (2025b, April 22). Retinol. Cleveland Clinic. https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/treatments/23293-retinol
Racho, J. (2025, January 29). The different types of retinoids and how they benefit your skin. Dermstore. https://www.dermstore.com/blog/types-of-retinoids-benefits/?srsltid=AfmBOop4zo3CI9c5FjpztggIOix1WaE5DM4e6_p5aYdPWzd6BdHvcqxD
Uk, W. (2024, June 7). Retinol: why holy grail of skincare faces ban. The Week. https://theweek.com/health/retinol-why-holy-grail-of-skincare-faces-ban
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