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Heroin Chic: How Kate Moss Shaped (and Shocked) the ‘90s

November 16, 2024 by Ashley Chan Leave a Comment

“Kate Moss, a rockstar trapped in a supermodel’s body.” 

This famous TikTok sound captures the essence of Kate Moss—cool, rebellious, and undeniably iconic. Moss reshaped the fashion industry, leaving an impact that extends far beyond the runway. Her rock ‘n’ roll attitude, often reflected in her personal life and style, added a layer of edge that set her apart from the polished, glamorous supermodels of her time.

At 5’7″, with a slender, androgynous frame, Moss embodied the “waif” look—pale, thin, and otherworldly. Her look was a radical departure from the curvaceous, “glamazon” models like Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell who dominated the runway. Her gap-toothed smile, her bed-head hair, and her messy personal style inspired the “anti-supermodel” movement. This shift gave rise to a new group of models and designers who embraced imperfection, moving away from the super-glossy look of the late ‘80s. This was a turning point in fashion, where heroin chic became the dominant trend. 

Her 1993 Calvin Klein campaign with photographer Mario Sorrenti was a defining moment in fashion. Moss, shot in black and white, draped over a mattress in nothing but jeans, became the poster child for the new era of ’90s grunge. That campaign, along with her appearances in Vogue and her collaborations with top designers, positioned her as the face of a new kind of beauty. 

Kate Moss didn’t just change runway fashion though, she also revolutionized street style. Her off-duty looks have been as impactful as her high-fashion moments, giving rise to what we now call “model-off-duty” style. Whether it’s her love for skinny jeans, ankle boots, leather jackets, or boho dresses, Moss’ casual, cool aesthetic set the tone for street fashion throughout the 2000s and beyond.

She has collaborated with brands like Topshop, where her capsule collections became instant sell-outs. This move cemented her status as a style muse with an influence over the way real people dress. Moss also collaborated with Longchamp, where she designed a range of handbags, showcasing her creative reach. Additionally, designers have always been drawn to her, from John Galliano to Alexander McQueen. McQueen, in particular, had a long and creative friendship with Moss. One of the most iconic moments of their collaboration was the 2006 hologram of Moss in a flowing organza gown closing his runway show.

Before Kate Moss, models were expected to be tall, curvy, and bombshell-esque. Moss flipped that on its head. Her unconventional beauty and almost awkward proportions were her strengths. She wasn’t interested in looking glamorous in the traditional sense, which resonated with a generation tired of unattainable ideals. Moss made flaws desirable.

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Ashley Chan

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Ashley Chan

Filed Under: Editor Blogs, Style and Self

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